I wonder if that's more for pro players who are playing 100+ gigs a year. I don't see a need to change my around 4 year old Legend cone, as it still sounds great to me.

I think Oswald's model 27 had the same cone his entire career.

If you like the sound I wouldn't change it out. It might be a stamped cone, which is hard to come by these days, and it might even be glued or nailed in.

No, it doesn’t

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Originally posted by gadobro

I wonder if that's more for pro players who are playing 100+ gigs a year. I don't see a need to change my around 4 year old Legend cone, as it still sounds great to me.

I think Oswald's model 27 had the same cone his entire career.

If you like the sound I wouldn't change it out. It might be a stamped cone, which is hard to come by these days, and it might even be glued or nailed in.

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Yeah, my fear that it's a stamped one so no replacements will sound better.

However, this dobro is almost 50 years old now and i was wondering how long can i go before i change cones. I'm more of a bedroom guitarist and I don't play more than 30 minutes a day.

If I liked the sound I wouldn't worry about, personally. If the cone is easily removable, you could try switching it out, but keep the old cone in case you want to switch back.

There's a reason that some of "us" are on a 1-5 year plan. The cone is a "wear item" and does change due to oxidation and lack of responsiveness over time.

I suspect that the OP is not in the category of "us" for now.

So, don't sweat it.

h

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Originally posted by hlpdobro

There's a reason that some of "us" are on a 1-5 year plan. The cone is a "wear item" and does change due to oxidation and lack of responsiveness over time.

I suspect that the OP is not in the category of "us" for now.

So, don't sweat it.

h

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As a casual player, can I use the same cone for a lifetime?

Also my current cone might be already ~50 years old.

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Originally posted by Mikoyan1

quote:

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Originally posted by hlpdobro

There's a reason that some of "us" are on a 1-5 year plan. The cone is a "wear item" and does change due to oxidation and lack of responsiveness over time.

I suspect that the OP is not in the category of "us" for now.

So, don't sweat it.

h

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As a casual player, can I use the same cone for a lifetime?

Also my current cone might be already ~50 years old.

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I think so if it sounds good to you. Wouldn't phase me one bit.

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Originally posted by Mikoyan1

 

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As a casual player, can I use the same cone for a lifetime?

Also my current cone might be already ~50 years old.

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If you can't hear the change over time or don't care, sure, why not?

FWIW... You weren't playing it 50 years ago so you don't know what the guitar sounded like originally.

h

Same deal with strings.

Professionals are hard on the equipment! They play louder.

I play quietly in my office three hours a week.

I have 90+ year old cones in some of mine, they sound great.

I have a simple test for strings and cones- if it sounds good, leave it alone. When it stops sounding good, change it. I don't think you need an arbitrary schedule. Everything wears out eventually but I base my judgement on the sound because that's what it's all about.

I thought my four year old Beard Legend cone sounded fine, then I replaced it with a new Beard Legend cone. Immediately, the squareneck reso guitar sounded way better! , to my ears.

Doubt if anyone listening in an audience would have noticed the switch. Unless their ears were as close to the cone as mine??

Jman

If part of the problem with older cones is oxidation, how does a buyer know how old a cone is, that is to say, how long it has been sitting on a shelf? Do they have a date, and I just never noticed?

Gene Wootens Walnut Harlow "Goldie" still has the original set up (including cone and spider) since it was made by Frank. I played it many times from 2001 to 2023, more than Jerry D ever did when he took his Scheerhorn to Gene for checkups. "Goldie" never needed a set up or change. Gene took his personal guitars to Frank Harlow for set ups, etc. All of my Harlows still have original set ups beginning approx 2001 thru 2017, and I play them today without concern, then again... he showed me a couple of things.  2 years is a marketing concept suggested/designed perhaps keep musicians aware of their instruments sonic integrity. Frank built them well enough he never had to recommend that concept.  Frank set the standard for set ups, and to this day there is not a set up man that knows exactly how Frank set them up, including the purported "best" set up man in the business, whom was taught by Frank, but not taught everything Frank knew. Directly quoted from Frank to me several times. So, YMMV. Cheers.  

Probably fun to mess with for variety though, I can see how having a collection of cones and cycling through them would be cool. My '34 model 45 came to me with a Quarterman and Beard spider, it sounds great and I haven't put back it's original Lug and short spider cone it came with, I'm well familiar with that tone. My '36 Duolian has its original and still sounds awesome, as does my Tricone, though I might try some new NRPs in that, not by any means out of necessity though.

The cone is super important to a resonator guitar. To set a two year limit on one is not what merits a need to change the cone. The functionality of the cone and sound it produces is what I look for. The quality cones that are being spun have held up well for me.

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Originally posted by Mikoyan1

I just bought a 1970s OMI Dobro, and it has a really sweet sound and has a pickup underneath the cone.

However, do I really have to replace the cone every 2 years? I fear that using a different cone will change the tone of my dobro (I don't want it to change) and I have to reinstall the pickup which is even more of a hassel...

EDIT: If not 2 years, how long can I go before I need a cone change? Especially since this dobro is nearly 50 years old now and I'm not sure when was the last time the cone was changed.

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Let a sleeping dog lie! ??

If You are not using a spun cone Thats the problem. Your Cone [SPUN CONE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED] should last the life of the instrument. Humidity level is also a very important factor. According to the experts, the ideal Humidity Level for wood body instruments is 45-55 percent. I keep My 1971 OMI in the 45-50 percent range. Try a plain 18 gauge string on the 1/2 D & B. I'm a 72 year old player and a longtime student of MIKE AULDRIDGE. Stew Mac or Bread Guitars have the Spun Cone. There are humidity gauges made especially for your instrument case. About the screw that holds the cone and spider together. Once the screw has made contact with the cone, turn it only 3/4 of a turn and absolutely no more than 1 full turn. You can damage the cone and severely impact the quality of the sound.

quote:Originally posted by couchmusicianIf You are not using a spun cone Thats the problem. Your Cone [SPUN CONE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED] should last the life of the instrument. Humidity level is also a very important factor. According to the experts, the ideal Humidity Level for wood body instruments is 45-55 percent. I keep My 1971 OMI in the 45-50 percent range. Try a plain 18 gauge string on the 1/2 D & B. I'm a 72 year old player and a longtime student of MIKE AULDRIDGE. Stew Mac or Bread Guitars have the Spun Cone. There are humidity gauges made especially for your instrument case. About the screw that holds the cone and spider together. Once the screw has made contact with the cone, turn it only 3/4 of a turn and absolutely no more than 1 full turn. You can damage the cone and severely impact the quality of the sound. UPDATE- BONE NUT & NEW MAPLE INSERTS. Use only a tiny spot of glue when installing the NUT.

quote:

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Originally posted by couchmusician

quote:Originally posted by couchmusicianIf You are not using a spun cone Thats the problem. Your Cone [SPUN CONE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED] should last the life of the instrument. Humidity level is also a very important factor. According to the experts, the ideal Humidity Level for wood body instruments is 45-55 percent. I keep My 1971 OMI in the 45-50 percent range. Try a plain 18 gauge string on the 1/2 D & B. That was the way JOSH did it. I'm a 72 year old player and a longtime student of MIKE AULDRIDGE. Stew Mac or Beard Guitars have the Spun Cone. There are humidity gauges made especially for your instrument case. About the screw that holds the cone and spider together. Once the screw has made contact with the cone, turn it only 3/4 of a turn and absolutely no more than 1 full turn. You can damage the cone and severely impact the quality of the sound. UPDATE- BONE NUT & NEW MAPLE INSERTS. Use only a tiny spot of glue when installing the NUT.

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Originally posted by couchmusician. Your Cone [SPUN CONE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED] should last the life of the instrument. 

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Uhhh... I would strongly disagree with this statement with regards to cone longevity. Cones, strings, inserts and nuts are all wear items and should be adjusted or replaced accordingly. Players' preferences and obvious issues ARE factors but...You might be surprised how often, Mike, Jerry, Andy, Josh and a host of other great players replace cones and/or have their guitars set up.

h